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How to route electrical cables in new buildings

Running cables in new buildings is easy, but first you need to sketch out your plan on paper.


The installation of coarse cables in the construction of new buildings is carried out before the walls, ceilings and flooring are in place. Nonmetallic sheathed cable, known as Type NM, is common for new construction.


Although there are situations where you will need to run the cable through structural elements such as struts, joists and beams, the job is much easier if you You can run the cable along the surfaces of these frames.

Pass the cable through the studs


When you have a situation where you need to pass the cable through the wall studs, do the following:


1 Drill a series of 3/4 inch holes through a series of new stud walls equidistant from the top or bottom of each stud.


Drill through the center of each pin.


2 Measure the length of cable you will need. Include the height of the boxes from the ground and the distance between the boxes. Add at least 4 extra feet to avoid unpredictable obstacles.


3 Carefully route the cable through the holes you drilled in the studs or joists to the new box outlet not to bend or twist the cable.

Securing the Cable


In new construction, the cable should be clamped or supported with straps every 4 1/2 feet; it must also operate within 12 inches of each metallic box or within 8 inches of each non-metallic box. Cable ties can be used, but be careful not to pinch the cable. You can also use metal plates to protect cable installed near the edge of a stud or joist.


Staples or cable holders are not required when the cable is hidden. But the cable must be secured to the enclosures using built-in cable ties, metal cable connectors or plastic cable connectors.


The NM cable does not need to be attached to a non-metallic box if attached within 8 inches of the box.

Routing around doors and windows


Windows are a bit easier to get around than doors because most have a frame with posts below the sill through which the cable can be passed. With doors, however, it is best to run the cable through the ceiling above or the floor below if possible. If neither of these is an option, you will need to route the cable through the knocked out pins above the header or through the shimming space just below the header.

Routing Difficult Corners


An intersection where the pin walls meet can be a challenge for cable routing.


It may be easier to route the cable above or below the area in question. If the corner is hollow, you can drill holes in the posts on both sides and run the cable through

Unfinished basement


If you run the cable under the floor angled to floor joists, NM cable with two conductors smaller than no. 6 or three conductors smaller than no. 8 should be drilled through the joists and then secured with staples to the platforms. Or you can support the cable on the surface of the structural elements; simply attach the larger cable directly to the bottom edges of the joists.

Running Cable in an Attic


When routing cable in an attic, it may be routed over joists or through holes in the attic, depending on their accessibility. In the case of an attic with ladder or permanent ladder, pass the cable obliquely in relation to the structural elements and protect it with protective strips.


If you access the attic through a crawl space without stairs or permanent ladders, protect the cable within 6 feet of the hole with protective strips; beyond this distance, simply lay the cable on the ceiling joists. If the cable runs parallel to the joists, you can attach it to the sides of the joists.


Safety Tip: When routing electrical cable in and around prefabricated roof trusses, never drill any holes or carvings into them. This could void the manufacturer's warranty, weaken them and ultimately create a safety hazard. Use the foot pegs instead and secure the cable with staples.





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